Landscape Design

Weeds are one of the most persistent problems when maintaining a beautiful lawn. They compete with grass and plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight and create an untidy, overgrown appearance that can ruin the aesthetic appeal of your garden.

Common weeds such as crabgrass, dandelions, and clover can quickly take over a healthy lawn if left unchecked. Fortunately, keeping your lawn lush, green, and weed-free is possible with the proper techniques and tools.

This guide’ll cover practical, research-backed methods for effectively controlling weeds while nurturing your grass. These strategies will help you regain control of your outdoor space.

Identifying Weeds

Before you treat weeds, you need to know what you’re dealing with. Not all weeds behave the same way, and each type may require a different approach. While it's not necessary to identify every single weed on your property, it's essential to recognize the most aggressive or widespread ones.

Weeds are typically grouped by how they grow, how they sprout, and how long they live. 

Knowing whether you're dealing with a broadleaf, grassy, or grass-like weed and whether it's an annual, biennial, or perennial can help you choose the proper control method.

1. Based on Weed Growth Types

Weeds fall into three basic growth types:

  • Broadleaf Weeds: These have wider leaves and often grow low and wide. Common examples include dandelion, clover, and ground ivy.
  • Grassy Weeds: These look similar to turfgrass but grow faster or in clumps. Examples include crabgrass, annual bluegrass, and quackgrass.
  • Grass-like Weeds: These appear narrow and stiff, like grass, but grow differently. Wild onions and nutsedge fall into this category.

2. Monocot vs Dicot Weeds

Weeds also differ in how they sprout from seed:

  • Monocots have one seed leaf. These are typically grassy weeds like crabgrass or bluegrass.
  • Dicots have two seed leaves. These are broadleaf weeds like dandelions and plantain.

3. Based on Their Life Cycle

Weeds are also classified by how long they live:

Life Cycle Table
Life Cycle Description Examples (Broadleaf) Examples (Grassy)
Annual Grows and dies in one season Black medic, knotweed, spurge Crabgrass, yellow foxtail
Biennial Lives for two years, seeds in the second year Mullein, burdock None are commonly found in lawns.
Perennial Lives for many years, regrows annually Dandelion, clover, ground ivy Quackgrass, tall fescue

Quick Tips for Spotting Common Lawn Weeds

  • Crabgrass: Light green, coarse texture, forms spreading clumps in hot weather.
  • Dandelion: Rosette has broad leaves, bright yellow flowers, and a deep taproot.
  • Quackgrass: Grows fast, forms thick clumps, and has long underground stems.
  • Spotted Spurge: Low-growing, small leaves with red stems, milky sap.
  • White Clover: Low-growing, round white flowers, spreads quickly.

If you’re still unsure about what’s growing in your lawn, focus on the weeds causing the most trouble. 

Recognizing a weed's type and life cycle is the first step to getting rid of it for good. You can now take action before the weeds spread or take over healthy grass. 

Removing Weeds by Hand

Hand weeding is the simplest and most targeted way to remove weeds. It’s also safe for kids, pets, and the environment. When done early and regularly, it helps you avoid bigger lawn problems later.

Before you begin, try to pull weeds right after a good rain or watering. Wet soil makes it easier to remove the whole root. When the soil is dry, you risk snapping the stem and leaving roots behind, which can cause regrowth.

1. Pulling the Right Way

Start by grabbing the weed close to the base and pulling slowly and steadily. Aim to remove the entire root system. Use a garden fork or slim trowel if the weed has deep or thick roots, like dandelions or thistles. 

Push the tool into the soil near the stem. Loosen the soil with a slight wiggle. Then, grip the crown and pull the whole weed out. Keep the hole small to avoid damage to the surrounding grass.

2. Tools to Help With Manual Weeding

A few common choices for manual weeding include:

  • Fishtail Weeder: Great for taproot weeds.
  • Slim Trowel: Good for tight spots.
  • Long-Handled Weeders: Help reduce bending on larger lawns.

Choose what fits your lawn and comfort. You don’t need anything fancy, just tools that let you dig cleanly and pull thoroughly.

3. Cleaning Up After Pulling

Once the weed is out, refill any large holes with clean soil. This step prevents new weeds from settling in bare spots. Once done, check the area for missed roots or surrounding growth. 

Do this regularly. Walk through your lawn once a week to spot weeds and pull them early. 

Hand weeding works well when you catch weeds early and stay consistent. But if weeds keep returning or have already spread across large areas, it might be time for stronger measures.

Using Herbicides for Tough Weeds

Sometimes, hand-pulling and lawn care alone won’t suffice. If weeds are widespread or complex to remove, consider using herbicides. These come in different types, each designed for specific weeds and timing. 

Before proceeding, know that herbicides are not a cure-all. They work best when paired with proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing. Check out this article here if you’d rather make a DIY Chemical weed killer

Types of Herbicides

Based on when you apply them, herbicides are classified as Pre-emergent and post-emergent. Here is all you need to know about them:

1. Preemergence Herbicides

These herbicides stop weed seeds from growing after they start to germinate. They don’t affect seeds before germination, so timing is key. Apply them before weeds appear, ideally in early spring for summer weeds like crabgrass.

  • The Soil temperatures should be 50–55°F at one inch deep.
  • Water lightly after application to activate the product.

2. Postemergence Herbicides

Postemergence herbicides work on weeds you can already see. But these are best when weeds are young and growing fast.

  • Apply for perennials during early growth or in the fall.
  • Avoid spraying in windy or rainy weather.
  • Do not soak the area; just wet the weed leaves.

Herbicides are also divided into Selective and Non-selective types based on their nature.

1. Selective herbicides target specific weeds (like dandelions or clover) and leave grass unharmed. 

2. Nonselective herbicides kill most plants they touch and are best for areas like driveways or spot treatments.

Safe Use and Application of Herbicides

Keep the following considerations in mind when dealing with Herbicides:

  • Always follow label directions strictly.
  • Wear gloves, long-sleeved clothing, and goggles.
  • Avoid spraying on windy days to prevent drift.
  • Never use near open water or storm drains.
  • Keep pets and children off treated areas until safe.

Best Time to Apply

Here are some pointers for timing your application based on your chosen herbicide:. 

  • Spring and fall are ideal for postemergent herbicides.
  • Apply preemergent products before weeds sprout.
  • For persistent weeds, you might need to reapply every 10-20 days (as the label allows). 

If you want to know about common lawn herbicides, refer to the table below:

A. Selective Preemergence Herbicides (Before Weeds Emerge)

Herbicide Table
Common Name Sample Trade Name(s) Available to Homeowners Weeds Controlled
benefin + oryzalin Green Light Amaze, XL 2G yes Grasses and some broadleaves in warm-season lawns
benefin + trifluralin Team 2G no Grasses and some broadleaves (extended control)
bensulide Betasan 7G no Annual bluegrass, henbit (requires full irrigation)
dithiopyr Dimension, Crabgrass Preventer yes Grasses and broadleaves, including crabgrass
etofumesate Poa Constrictor no Annual bluegrass and some broadleaf weeds
indaziflam Bayer Specticle yes Annual grasses and broadleaves
isoxaben Bayer Season Long Weed Control, Gallery yes Broadleaves (limited action on grasses)
mesotrione Tenacity, Scotts Starter + Weed Preventer yes Grass weeds and yellow nutsedge in new lawns
metolachlor Pennant Magnum no Yellow nutsedge and some grasses (warm-season lawns)
oryzalin Surflan, Monterey Weed Impede yes Grasses and broadleaves (warm-season use only)
pendimethalin Pendulum, Scotts Halts yes Crabgrass and some broadleaves (often with fertilizer)
prodiamine Barricade, Sta-Green CrabEx yes Bluegrass, crabgrass, some broadleaves
siduron Starter fertilizer mixes (Tupersan) no Cool-season lawns only; not for warm-season grass

B. Selective Postemergence Herbicides 

Herbicide Control Table
Common Name Sample Trade Name(s) Available to Homeowners Weeds Controlled
2,4-D + dicamba + MCPP Trimec, Ortho Weed B Gon, Spectracide yes Broadleaves like clover, dandelion
2,4-D + quinclorac + carfentrazone Bayer All-in-One, Monterey Crab-E-Rad yes Broadleaves and some grassy weeds like crabgrass
fenoxaprop-p-ethyl Bayer Bermudagrass Control yes Bermudagrass and crabgrass
fluazifop Fusilade II (pro use) no Grasses in tall fescue lawns
halosulfuron Sedgehammer, Monterey Nutgrass Killer yes Nutsedge and green kyllinga
penoxsulam Sapphire no Nutsedges, English daisy, white clover
quinclorac Drive XLR8 no Weedy grasses and some broadleaves
sulfentrazone Ortho Nutsedge Killer, Dismiss yes Yellow/purple nutsedge, spurge, wild garlic, knotweed
sulfosulfuron Certainty no Cool-season grasses, nutsedge, green kyllinga
triclopyr Monterey Turflon Ester yes Broadleaves like oxalis, wild garlic, and white clover
triclopyr + dicamba + MCPA Monterey Spurge Power, Ortho Weed B Gon yes Wide-spectrum broadleaf control

C. Nonselective Herbicides (These Kill All Plants, So Use with Caution)

Herbicide Use Table
Common Name Sample Trade Name(s) Use
diquat Spectracide Grass and Weed Killer Contact herbicide; spot treatment
glufosinate Finale Herbicide Kills all green growth
glyphosate Roundup, Kleenup, Remuda Systemic herbicide kills the entire plant.
glyphosate + imazapyr Common vegetation killers Do not use on lawns; it kills everything
plant oils and acids Organic options Safer but short-lived, for spot use

Choosing a lawn-safe weed killer can make a big difference when dealing with stubborn or widespread weeds. But even the best products won’t work well without a strong foundation. You need to focus on long-term lawn health to keep weeds from coming back.

Additional Tips for Getting Rid of Weeds

Beyond pulling and spraying, several practical steps can help you reduce weed problems for good. These methods support healthy grass growth, improve soil quality, and make your lawn less inviting to weeds. 

1. Improve Soil Conditions

Poor soil invites weeds. Start with a soil test and make small changes that strengthen your grass and weaken weed growth.

  • Aerate the Lawn: This breaks up compacted soil, improves air and water flow, and helps roots grow deep.
  • Add Compost: Boosts organic matter and feeds your grass.
  • Adjust Soil pH: Grass grows best in soil between 6.0 and 7.0. Use lime or sulfur to correct it.
  • Dethatch if Needed:  A thick layer of thatch can trap moisture and block nutrients. Remove it if it’s over ½ inch.

2. Establish a Lawn Care Routine

Healthy grass crowds out weeds. Stick to a basic care schedule to give your lawn the upper hand.

  • Water deeply and less often to promote strong roots.
  • Mow regularly and at the proper height for your grass type.
  • Fertilize on a seasonal schedule to keep grass dense and healthy.
  • Water early in the morning to reduce weed growth.

3. Mulch for Weed Control

Mulching does more than make garden beds look tidy; it also prevents weed seeds from sprouting and improves soil over time.

  • Use organic mulch like straw or wood chips.
  • Apply 3 to 4 inches around trees, beds, and garden edges
  • Helps retain moisture and adds nutrients

4. Herbicide Use Tips

Herbicides can be helpful, but only when used wisely. Always choose based on your lawn and weed type, not brand alone.

  • Shop by active ingredient, not trade name.
  • Follow all label directions and safety guidelines.
  • Spray in calm, mild weather only.
  • Don’t apply near shallow tree roots.
  • Avoid aerating or dethatching right after using preemergent products

These extra steps may seem small, but they add up. Together, they help you build a thick, green, and weed-free lawn.

Conclusion

Preventing weeds from returning is an ongoing effort that requires a combination of innovative practices and consistency. You can maintain a beautiful, weed-free lawn and garden by using various strategies, such as mulching, improving soil health, and employing natural barriers. 

Each step will help your plants grow, giving you more time to enjoy outdoor space without worrying about invasive weeds.

At Percy’s Lawn Care, we specialize in keeping your lawn healthy, green, and free from weeds year-round. Let us help you implement these effective weed prevention methods and provide expert lawn care tailored to your needs. Contact us today for a consultation and discover how we can make your lawn the envy of the neighborhood!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. What is the best time of year to control weeds in a lawn?
Spring and fall are ideal for applying herbicides and starting weed prevention routines before seeds germinate.

2. Can I control weeds without using chemicals?
Consistent hand-pulling, proper mowing, and improving soil health can naturally suppress most weeds.

3. How do I prevent weeds from coming back after pulling them?
Refill holes with soil, fertilize the grass, and monitor regularly to catch any regrowth early.

4. Are herbicides safe for pets and children?
Most are safe after drying, but always check the label and keep kids and pets off the treated area until it's declared safe.

5. Do I need different products for grassy weeds and broadleaf weeds?
Selective herbicides are formulated to target specific weed types—check the label for coverage details.

6. How often should I apply preemergent herbicides?
Typically, it happens once in early spring and again in fall, depending on weed type and climate.

7. Will mowing low help control weeds?
No, mowing too low weakens your grass and encourages weed growth—maintain the recommended mowing height.

8. Why do weeds keep growing in the same spots?
Consistently bare or compacted areas invite weeds—address soil quality, watering, and grass density.

9. Can I use mulch to stop lawn weeds?
Mulch is excellent for garden beds and edges, but not for open lawn areas. Use it where grass isn’t supposed to grow.

10. Should I pull weeds before or after it rains?
After rain, it is best; moist soil makes it easier to remove weeds with the root intact.vv