How to Fix Grass Bald Spots: 7 Simple Steps for a Healthier Lawn

Bald spots in your lawn can quickly turn a beautiful yard into an eyesore. Pet urine, heavy foot traffic, lawn pests, or compacted and nutrient-poor soil often cause these patches. 

Left untreated, they can cause significant damage and spread to weaken your entire lawn.

The good news is that you can restore your grass to a lush, healthy green with the right approach. There are two reliable methods for addressing patchy areas: reseeding and sodding. The former is cost-effective but takes time, while the latter offers immediate results at a higher price. 

This guide explains both methods for bringing your lawn back to life. Keep reading to learn how.

Step-by-Step Guide to Repairing Bald Spots in Your Lawn

Fixing bald spots is about restoring the health and resilience of your lawn from the ground up. You can either reseed or lay sod, regardless, the result will come down to preparation, timing, and consistent care.

Follow these steps to ensure your lawn repair takes root and grows strong:

Step 1: Identify and Fix the Underlying Cause

Before repairing a bald spot, it is essential to understand what caused it. Fixing the surface without addressing the root will only lead to wasted effort. 

Here are the most common causes to look for and how to fix them:

1. Pet Damage: Look for small, round yellow or brown patches with dark green edges. If pets are the issue, train them to use a designated area and rinse the spot with water immediately after they go.
2. Foot or Vehicle Traffic: Frequent movement across the same area can compact the soil and wear down the grass. Redirect traffic using stepping stones or paths, and avoid parking on the lawn.
3. Lawn Pests (Like Grubs): If the grass pulls up easily like a rug, grubs may eat the roots. You don’t need to use pesticides; you can also apply organic pest control solutions before reseeding or patching.
4. Soil Compaction: Dense, hard soil restricts root growth and water absorption. Use a manual or mechanical aerator to loosen the soil before seeding.
5. Poor Drainage: If water pools after rain, the area may have poor drainage. Improve it by grading the soil or mixing in compost to enhance structure and drainage.

Correcting the cause is the first step and often the most important one. Once your lawn is well-prepped, you can work toward healthy, lasting growth.

Step 2: Choose the Best Repair Method

Once you've addressed the underlying issue, you must decide how to restore the bare spots. The two most effective repair methods are seeding and sodding, each with its advantages depending on your needs, budget, and timing:

1. Seeding

• This is the more affordable option and works well if you're not in a rush.
• Grass seed typically takes 2 to 3 weeks to germinate and around 8 weeks to blend in thoroughly with your existing lawn. 
• It’s ideal for homeowners who prefer a gradual, natural look and want to establish strong root systems over time.

2. Sodding

• Sod offers instant results with complete coverage, making it the best choice for a fast fix. 
• It generally roots within 2 to 6 weeks, allowing you to enjoy a uniform lawn much sooner. 
• While it’s more expensive than seeding, sod provides a finished look almost immediately and can be installed during a broader range of growing conditions.

Choosing between the two depends on your timeline, budget, and the type of grass. For cool-season grasses, seed in late summer, early fall, or early spring. For warm-season grasses, seed or lay sod in late spring through early summer for best results.  

If you are unsure about the type of grass planted in your lawn, we also offer a comprehensive guide on how to identify different grass types.

Step 3: Prepare the Area

With your chosen repair method, the next step is to prepare the area for new grass. Proper preparation ensures good seed-to-soil or sod-to-soil contact, essential for healthy growth. Follow these steps to clear and prepare the space:

1. Mow Existing Grass Very Short: Lower your mower blade and scalp the area to remove as much existing grass as possible. This helps expose the soil surface and improves contact between seeds or sod. Bag the clippings to keep the area clean.
2. Remove Dead Grass: Use a rake to pull up any brown or dead grass in and around the patch. This will clear the way for new growth and reduce competition.
3. Clear Debris: Rake out rocks, twigs, and leaves that can interfere with soil contact or root development.
4. Remove Weeds: Hand-pull weeds carefully to remove the roots without disturbing the soil too much. Avoid using herbicides, especially pre-emergents, as they can prevent new grass from germinating.
5. Dethatch If Needed: Check for a thick thatch layer. If it's more than ½ inch thick, use a dethatching rake or machine to remove it. Excess thatch can block water, nutrients, and seed from reaching the soil.

Taking time to prep the area properly gives your new grass the best possible start and helps it grow thick, even, and strong. 

Step 4: Test and Amend the Soil

Healthy grass starts with healthy soil. Even if the area appears ready, hidden issues such as pH imbalances or nutrient deficiencies can prevent new grass from establishing properly. Testing and amending your soil now will save you time and frustration in the future.

1. Perform a Soil Test: Use a soil test kit to check for acidity, alkalinity, or low nutrient levels. These can all affect how well grass seed germinates and grows.
2. Add Compost: If your soil test reveals a lack of organic matter or nutrients, incorporate high-quality compost to enhance soil structure and fertility.
3. Apply Starter Fertilizer: A phosphorus-rich starter fertilizer can provide new grass with the essential nutrients it needs to develop strong roots.
4. Time It Right: Apply amendments just before or immediately after seeding to ensure the nutrients are available when the grass starts to grow.

Extra attention to your soil will lay the groundwork for a greener, thicker lawn.

Step 5: Loosen and Level the Soil

The next step is fine-tuning the seedbed by loosening and leveling the surface. This creates the ideal conditions for seed-to-soil contact, root development, and coverage.

1. Loosen the Top Layer: Use a garden rake or hand cultivator to loosen the top 1 to 2 inches of soil. This makes it easier for seeds or sod roots to take hold.
2. Aerate If Needed: If your soil is compacted, aerate your lawn using a core aerator or manual tool. This increases airflow, allowing water and nutrients to reach the roots more effectively.
3. Level the Surface: Rake the area smooth and add topsoil if needed. The repaired patch should be level or slightly higher than the surrounding lawn for natural settling.

A well-prepared surface gives your lawn repair its best chance to succeed, allowing grass to take root evenly and grow well.

Step 6: Spread Seed or Lay Sod

With the soil prepared, it’s time to introduce new grass, and proper placement is key to a successful repair.

Follow these steps:

1. Choose the Right Grass Seed: Select seed that matches your lawn and suits the area's sun or shade conditions. Using the same variety helps the new grass blend in more naturally for patching.
2. Apply Seed Evenly: Use a drop spreader for larger patches or a handheld spreader for small or tight areas. Follow the seeding rate listed on the package to avoid crowding or sparse growth.
3. Lay Sod Correctly: If sodding, cut the piece slightly larger than the patch area. Place it over the bare spot and trace around it. Remove the dead turf beneath, then press the sod firmly into place, ensuring complete contact with the soil underneath.

Careful seeding or sod placement helps ensure uniform growth and minimizes the risk of weak spots or gaps forming again.

Step 7: Protect and Water the Area

Once the seed or sod is in place, protection and proper watering are critical. This stage supports germination, root establishment, and long-term success.

1. Rake or Press In Seed: Lightly rake seeded areas to incorporate the seed into the topsoil, or use a lawn roller to press them in and improve soil contact.
2. Apply a Light Mulch: Cover seeded patches with a thin layer of mulch, such as clean straw. This helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and protect against birds or runoff.
3. Water Thoroughly and Consistently: Use a hose with a mist setting to water gently. Water the soil 2 to 3 times a day during the first two weeks to keep it consistently moist but not soggy. When grass begins to grow, gradually reduce the watering frequency while increasing the depth.

This step is all about patience and consistency. Proper moisture during these early days makes all the difference in how well your new grass takes root and fills in. 

After all this, you must continue to check your lawn to ensure that no new bald spots appear. 

Ongoing Maintenance

Once your new grass has started to grow, continuous maintenance is key to helping it mature and blend seamlessly with the rest of your lawn. Here are some pointers to help you:

1. Mow Carefully: Wait until the new grass reaches 3 to 4 inches in height before mowing. This usually takes 6 to 7 weeks after seeding. Also, use sharp blades and never remove more than one-third of the grass's height.
2. Time Your Fertilizer Application Right: Apply a starter fertilizer 6 to 8 weeks after planting to support continued root development and encourage healthy growth.
3. Control Pests and Weeds: Use products labeled as safe for newly seeded or sodded areas, and always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Monitor and Reseed If Needed: Watch for thin or uneven spots. Lightly reseed and repeat the watering and protection steps if necessary.

With the proper care and attention, your new grass will fill in strong and even, helping your lawn return to a lush, uniform look that lasts all season long.

Conclusion

Repairing bald spots is about building a healthier, more resilient landscape. By taking the time to understand the cause, improve soil health, and apply the proper repair method, you give your lawn the best chance to recover fully and stay lush for seasons to come.

Every step, from soil prep to watering, plays a role in the long-term success of your lawn. Consistency and care can even revive the patchiest lawn into something vibrant and lush. And if you ever need help, professional support is just a call away.

If you’re in Buffalo, Amherst, or Cheektowaga, let Percy’s Lawn Care give your lawn the expert attention it deserves. As a second-generation, family-owned business serving Western New York since 1999, we bring decades of experience, precision, and eco-conscious care to every yard we touch.

We provide free on-site consultations, tailored care plans, and meticulous service that treats your lawn like ours. Contact us today, and we will bring your lawn back to life!

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can I walk on newly seeded or sodded areas?
It’s best to avoid foot traffic on newly seeded areas for at least three weeks, or until the grass has grown tall enough to mow. For sod, avoid walking on it for the first 10 to 14 days to allow roots to establish correctly.

2. What’s the best time of day to water new grass?
Early morning is ideal for watering. Watering in the morning allows moisture to soak into the soil before the day's heat causes evaporation. Avoid watering in the evening, as it can promote fungal growth.

3. Should I dethatch my entire lawn before seeding bare spots?
Not always. Only dethatch if the thatch layer is more than one-half inch thick. Focus on areas that need repair unless you're overseeding your whole lawn, in which case, dethatching can improve overall results.

4. Can I mix grass seed types for better coverage?
Yes, and it is often recommended. A mix of grass types increases durability and improves the lawn’s ability to handle different sun, shade, and traffic conditions. Just make sure the mix is compatible with your region.

5. How do I know if my soil is compacted?
If water tends to puddle, or if it is difficult to insert a screwdriver or garden stake into the ground, your soil is likely compacted. Aeration is the best solution for relieving this issue.

6. What are the signs of poor drainage in my lawn?
Standing water after rain, muddy or soggy patches, moss growth, or stunted grass are all signs of drainage problems. Improving the soil with compost or regrading the area can help.

7. Can I use leftover seed from last year?
Possibly. Grass seed can remain viable for a few years if stored in a cool, dry place, but germination rates drop over time. Perform a simple germination test or buy fresh seed if you're unsure.

8. How long until my new lawn looks fully established?
Seeded lawns typically take six to eight weeks to fill in and may take a full growing season to blend thoroughly. Sod establishes faster, often within two to six weeks, but still needs proper care to root and grow fully.